Beneath the Surface: My Unforgettable Dive Liveaboard Adventure in Thailand
By Rima Dmitriew, Travel ConsultantUpdated October 2026 · 7 min read
Quick takeaways
- After a G Adventures tour of Thailand, Rima flew solo to Phuket for a 5-day, 4-night liveaboard in the Similan Islands.
- Sites included Koh Bon, Koh Tachai, Richelieu Rock and the Boon Sung Wreck.
- Whale sharks are often spotted from December to May and manta rays from October to May.
- Liveaboards make diving easy: set up your gear once, then enjoy 4 to 5 dives a day.
Last year, I had the opportunity to make one of my travel dreams come true. I traveled to Thailand with a group of travel agents and a Canadian tour company called G Adventures. After an incredible and informative tour that took me from the lively streets of Bangkok to the peaceful charm of Chiang Mai – with beautiful stops along the way – I made plans to continue my journey.
I wanted to make the most of my time in this unfamiliar part of the world so I booked a Scuba Diving Liveaboard and a second tour with G Adventures that would take me to the southern parts of Thailand, Vietnam and Cambodia. I said goodbye to the group I’d been traveling with and boarded a flight—solo—from Bangkok to Phuket, ready to trade temples and night markets for saltwater and scuba gear.
A beach day before the big blue
Phuket did not disappoint! With sunshine, warm sand, and that unmistakable ocean breeze that makes you want to breathe a little deeper, I took a few days to relax before boarding my long-awaited liveaboard. My hotel was conveniently located right across the street from a beautiful beach, and I spent my time exploring the area, swimming and letting the excitement build for what was coming next: a 5-day, 4-night dive liveaboard through one of the most legendary marine parks in Southeast Asia.
On the morning that my dive trip was to start, the company that I booked with picked me up directly from my hotel—such a perfect way to start the trip. When I arrived at the dive center, I was greeted by their professional and friendly staff. These people are clearly passionate about what they do. Their confidence and warmth instantly made me feel more at ease about taking this adventure solo.
Setting off into the Similan Islands
Our itinerary was a diver’s dream, covering all the “must do” dive sites of the Similan Islands National Park and included stops at:
- Koh Bon
- Koh Tachai
- Richelieu Rock
- The Boon Sung Wreck
These sites are legendary in Thailand and for good reason.
The hunt for giants, and the beauty I found instead
In this region, divers often spot whale sharks between December and May, and manta rays from October to May. Since I was diving in early May, I knew I might have a chance to see one of these gentle giants. Unfortunately, neither mantas nor whale sharks made an appearance on my trip. But instead of feeling disappointed, I found myself thinking: Well… now I have a reason to come back.
And what I did see was spectacular.
The number of different species of fish and the size of the schools was like nothing I had ever seen before. We saw everything from batfish, jacks, angelfish, barracuda and colorful corals to triggerfish, nudibranchs, sea turtles and reef sharks. The list doesn’t even begin to cover all the life we saw. Richelieu Rock, in particular, was so full of swirling schools of fish that visibility was affected. At one point, I could barely see my dive master—even though she was only about 30 feet away from me and my buddy. Thank goodness that she was wearing bright orange fins! It was like drifting through a living cloud of color and motion.
Advisor tipHoping for whale sharks or manta rays? Plan your Similan Islands trip between December and April, when both are most often spotted.
Life onboard: new friends, good food and ocean rhythm
On the boat, I shared a cabin with a young woman from China who was also paired up with me to be my dive buddy. Other divers came from as far away as Germany and Amsterdam, making it a wonderful international mix. The crew did a great job of pairing us with buddies and grouping us by skill level, which made the diving even more enjoyable and safe.
The food onboard was delicious and there was always lots to choose from at each meal. We were treated to many different fresh dishes and local flavors. After each dive, we were happy to see the snacks that were waiting for us. With temperatures climbing into the high 30s, there was also a constant supply of water and electrolytes. The whole crew took the time to make sure we all had what we needed to make our experience the best it could be.
I was consistently impressed by the crew’s friendliness, knowledge, and passion. Whether helping fix a piece of equipment or answering endless questions about fish ID, they always seemed happy to share their expertise.
Why liveaboards are a diver’s dream
One of the best parts of liveaboard diving is the ease and rhythm of it all. On the first day, you set up your gear—and after that, you barely think about it. The crew refills your tanks, assists when needed, and keeps everything running smoothly.
Most days include 4–5 dives:
- Two in the morning
- Two in the afternoon
- And a night dive when conditions allow
Between dives, you eat, rest, chat, or simply watch the ocean roll by.
A trip to remember
My journey through the Similan Islands was more than just a series of dives – it was an experience that I will never forget. I have memories of places and people that I think of often. Even without whale sharks or mantas, it became one of the most memorable parts of my time in Thailand.
If you’ve never been on a liveaboard before, consider this your sign.
It’s a unique and unforgettable way to dive—and one that I think every diver should experience.
After reluctantly returning to land, the dive company drove me back to my hotel in Phuket, giving me time to reflect on everything I had experienced. Soon after, I continued my travels through Thailand, Vietnam and Cambodia, each day filled with new sights, foods, and cultures that left me in awe.
But no matter how incredible the rest of my journey was, nothing quite matched the magic of those five days on the Andaman Sea.
Planning your own Similan Islands liveaboard
Ready to dive the Similans for yourself? Here’s what we tell divers who are planning a liveaboard trip.
- When to go: the Similan Islands National Park is only open for part of the year, roughly mid-October to mid-May, and closes during the monsoon season. For the best chance of manta rays and whale sharks, aim for the heart of the season.
- Where trips leave from: most liveaboards depart from Khao Lak or Phuket, and many include hotel pickup, just like Rima’s did.
- Certification: some sites suit Open Water divers, but the deeper dives and currents at places like Richelieu Rock are more comfortable with an Advanced certification and some experience. Ask about Nitrox too.
- Dive insurance: make sure your travel insurance covers scuba diving, or add dedicated dive insurance.
- Getting there from Canada: fly to Bangkok, then connect to Phuket. Many travellers pair a liveaboard with a land tour of Thailand, like Rima did.
Advisor tipGive yourself a day or two on land before you board to get over jet lag. Remember, you’ll also need to wait about a day after your last dive before you fly home.
Ready to dive the Similan Islands? Rima would love to help you plan your own liveaboard adventure.
FAQs
What is a dive liveaboard?
A liveaboard is a boat you live on for several days while diving. The crew refills your tanks and looks after your gear, and most days include 4 to 5 dives.
When can you see whale sharks in the Similan Islands?
Whale sharks are often spotted between December and May, and manta rays from October to May.
What are the best dive sites in the Similan Islands?
Rima’s itinerary included Koh Bon, Koh Tachai, Richelieu Rock and the Boon Sung Wreck.
Can you do a liveaboard solo?
Yes. Rima travelled solo, and the crew paired her with a dive buddy and grouped divers by skill level.
When is the Similan Islands National Park open?
The park is open roughly from mid-October to mid-May and closes during the monsoon season, so liveaboards only run during those months.
Do I need an Advanced certification for a Similan Islands liveaboard?
Some sites suit Open Water divers, but the deeper dives and currents at sites like Richelieu Rock are more comfortable with an Advanced certification and some experience.
